Romania: Fagaras Mountains

Jo: After three very frustrating days in Brasov, we finally achieve the impossible (renting a car in Romania) and we have been exploring the Fagaras mountains or the “Romanian Alps”. We orginially planned to drive all the way across the country to the Apuseni  mountain range in the north west, but decided on the way to take a turn and go up this crazy windy mountain road into the Fagaras. 

The mountain switchbacks are nothing for weak nerves and Tosh is whiteknuckling in the passenger seat. The views are absolutely amazing though and well worth the drive. There is a cabana (mountain hostel) on top of the mountain, but it is so packed with people that we decide to keep driving. We find a gem of a hotel right by a stream and hiking trails, with friendly staff and comfy beds, where be book a room for the next few nights. 

Yesterday we got up early, packed out daypacks and headed out for a day hike up a steep 1300 m elevation gain to a saddle (2200 m), then following a ridge and back down the back of the mountain. The ascent is grueling and steep, crossing a mountain meadow without any real trail. The meadow is so soft and squishy, that your boot sinks into the grass onto an unforseeable wobbly surface with every step. That lasts for about an hour and Tut is not in the mood for it. She is on hiking strike the entire way up and we have to take many breaks to let her catch up. About two thirds of the way up she decides this is ok and starts singing her way to the top. Note to hiking parents: never ever forget the most essential item for hiking with kids: Copious amounts of candy. We had forgotten to stack up on candy on our spontaneous turn and had to pay. 

When we get to the ridge the 360 views of the entire mountain range are nothing short of spectacular and well worth the gruel. On our way across the ridge, we encounter a herd of sheep. I had read in our hiking guides that shepherd dogs protecting their flock have been known to attack hikers. Shortly after we spot the flock, the dogs spot us and come at us. There are 5 massive dogs the size of wolves, barking, growling and coming dangerously close to us. I wave at the shepherd, to get his attention and call back the dogs. He waves back and does – nothing. The dogs come closer, bearing their teeth and clearly not there for the pets. I give my hiking stick to Tosh who is in front, and the kids and I start backing up, away from the flock, while Tosh keeps the dogs at bay. They continue to follow us, even as we choose and alternate route at the other side of the ridge and at times we have to stop and yell at them to stop them from further approaching. Definitely scary. 

On our way down the aforementioned wobbly mountain meadow, Tosh and I realize that our knees are old. The steep uneven surface makes for many twisted ancles and equally twisted knees. By the end of the 2+ hour descent we both have shaky legs from the exertion. After 9 hours we make it back down to the hotel and get to drink a well deserved cold Romania beer, which tastes glorious. The kids held up great, despite the utter lack of candy. Today we are on our way to explore more in this beautiful region, but no hiking today.. 

Also, for the record, so far we have observed the following wildlife: Deer, a fox, mountain goat, brown bears and about eight million storchs (they must have a baby boom around here!). 

Miles: the mountain was boring. Just kidding it was a hard hike with a lot of glorious mountain views. when we started the hike Tut was extremely grumpy and my mom explained to her that we all have a schwein-hund (pig dog) inside of us and we have to tell it no no no. The first part was not easy when we got to the top we had to fight some shepard dogs and they were scary, the dogs followed us and after awhile my mom started waving her hiking stick at them and she sounded like she was screaming a witch retuial at them, "badabi badabo badabi badabo". It was hilarious. the way down was awful and my legs got tired so i decided to curl up and tumble down the huge mountain it was painful, fun, and dizzying, i got so dizzy i couldn't see for a whole minute. but all in all this hike was excellent.

Tut: the hike was hard. There where beautiful mountain views. At on point we encountered a flock of sheep and the dogs where really aggressive and started chasing after us so mom used her metal hiking stick and started waving it around and saying some sort of witch spell it sounded like this BIBLY BOBLY BOBADY BO, then we where crossing a field and there were so many wild blue berries they where SO GOOD. Even if the hike was hard i had a great time.